A recent episode of the CNN food show Anthony Bourdain: Parts Unknown has fueled a debate in Vietnam on whether it is worth it to be yelled and cursed at only to be able to have a bowl of noodles.

“Cussing noodles” is what world-renowned chef Anthony Bourdain names the noodle shop on Ngo Si Lien Street in Hanoi, known for its owner, a middle-aged lady who would not pull any verbal punches when talking to her customers.

The bizarre eatery was the second feature of the Parts Unknown episode about Hanoi, besides the bun cha restaurant where Bourdain joined President Barack Obama in a dinner during the latter’s visit to Vietnam in May.

Since it aired earlier this month, the CNN footage has ignited mixed responses from Vietnamese viewers.

Many feel “proud” to see a Hanoi eatery featured on such a major television channel as CNN, whereas others say it is a shame to tell the world about such an “uncultured” service provider.

Those who feel it hard to tolerate the yelling and cursing of the restaurant owner believe she has ruined the friendly and cultured image of the Vietnamese capital.

The 'cussing noodle' shop owner

Cussing is a habit

As seen in the CNN footage, Bourdain was taken to the Ngo Si Lien eatery by Ha, a local friend of his in the Old Quarter.

The U.S. chef said the place earns its name as “cussing noodles” thanks to the owner, who is “known for the free and frank way she communicates with the customers.”

In illustrating the ‘habit’ of the owner, the video continues with a scene showing the lady yelling at a female customer, who seems indecisive on what to order. “If you are going to order, hurry up,” the owner said.

When the customer places an order for a bowl of noodles with vermicelli and pig tongue and ground pork, the owner snaps, “But I don’t have that… If you like ground pork go to the market, they’ve got lots of it.”

Video courtersy of CNN

Ha explains that it is normal for the owner to yell at customers who are indecisive. “You may say ‘can I have this’ and then ‘oh no, maybe I will have this instead,’ and she will tell you to get out of her shop,” Ha said in the video.

The proprietor appears on the screen again, saying “It’s best if you just go home and eat.”

At the “cussing noodle” restaurant, the best dish is noodles served with pig knuckle and snout.

“You put up with the abuse for this glorious steaming bowl of rice noodles with spicy chilies, a rich hearty, porky broth with pig knuckle and snout,” Bourdain said.

Dignity for food?

Ironically, following the CNN footage, the “cussing noodle” shop just received more customers, who apparently came there out of curiosity.

Some of the customers revealed to Tuoi Tre (Youth) newspaper that they only need to “eat nicely” to avoid being yelled at.

Curious foreign tourists also came to the place to try the experience, and their views on the foul-mouthed cook are different.

A British tourist named Joe told Tuoi Tre he does not mind if he is cursed at by the lady. “I will just laugh it off then,” he said. But Spanish man Farish believes people should never visit a place where they know they will be mistreated.

In the meantime, many Vietnamese people find it hard to simply “put up with the abuse” to enjoy the dish. Some say they have no idea why people accept the abuse only to be able to taste the dish, while they should have demanded proper service.

People waiting at the 'cussing noodle' shop

“Were this woman to run her business in Saigon, the whole family would have to eat all what she cooks as there would be no customers,” a Tuoi Tre reader named Huynh Quoc Vuong said, referring to Ho Chi Minh City by its popular old name.

“Consumers in Saigon love eating good dishes, but they will never exchange their dignity for a bowl of noodles, be it delicious or not.”

Another reader, Ngo Truc Dien, concurred, commenting right below, “Where has the self-esteem of these people gone?”

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