“Head straight and turn into the alley near the big Indian almond tree,” locals in Quang Ninh Province’s Ha Long City, home to the famed Ha Long Bay in northern Vietnam, tell visitors who ask where to find the best bánh cuốn (steamed rice rolls) with chả mực (squid cake).

Steamed rice rolls, or bánh cuốn, are a popular dish found throughout Vietnam, though the toppings and accompaniments vary by region.

In Hanoi, bánh cuốn is served with fish sauce and chả quế (deep-fried cinnamon-flavored pork rolls); in Cao Bang Province, it comes with eggs and bone broth.

In Ha Long, it is paired with chả mực, or squid cake.

As tourism grows in Ha Long, this humble dish rises in popularity, offering a distinct and essential culinary experience in the city.

One of the oldest and most popular places to try bánh cuốn chả mực in Ha Long is Goc Bang, a street-side stall tucked into Alley 1 on Nha Hat Street in Bach Dang Ward.

Locals easily direct visitors by pointing to the alley beside the largest Indian almond tree on the street.

Goc Bang is a modest eatery but has earned a strong reputation in Ha Long.

The recipe for its steamed rice rolls with squid cake has been passed down through three generations.

Le Thi Huong, the stall owner, said the restaurant has operated for 40 years.

“We open early in the morning, and by 1:00 pm, we’re sold out,” she said while preparing a fresh batch of rice rolls.

“During peak tourist seasons, we stay open until about 2:30 pm.”

The rice rolls are made fresh to order, with Huong constantly at work rolling out the rice flour and preparing the filling.

“The flour is made from a blend of high-quality rice, ground into a fine powder,” she explained.

“After letting it settle, we discard the top layer of water and mix the remaining flour with clean water.

“It’s a time-consuming process, but it’s how we achieve soft, smooth, and flavorful rice rolls.”

The dish’s appeal lies in the fragrant, golden squid cake served on the side.

The squid is carefully selected, ground with spices, shaped into patties, and fried until crispy.

While the cakes were originally made by hand, the family now uses some machinery to meet customer demand.

Huong Ly, a visitor from Hanoi, was impressed by the pairing.

“I’m a fan of bánh cuốn and have tried versions in Hanoi and Cao Bang, but this Ha Long version is unique,” she said while dipping a rice roll into fish sauce.

“The rolls are soft yet firm, and the squid cake is perfectly seasoned. It’s a combination worth trying.”

On an average day, the stall serves about 200 portions, with higher numbers during peak seasons.

The family often works into the afternoon to accommodate the crowds.

Each serving of bánh cuốn costs VND40,000 (US$1.56), with an additional VND10,000 (US$0.39) for chả mực.

As Ha Long continues to attract tourists, bánh cuốn chả mực remains one of the city’s most beloved local dishes, offering visitors a flavorful taste of regional cuisine.

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