A roadside eatery along National Highway No. 1 in Long An has gained fame for its steaming bowls of snakehead fish congee served with fresh bitter herbs, making it a must-try for travelers passing through the province in Vietnam's Mekong Delta.

Decades prior, when National Highway No. 1 was still the only major route connecting Long An’s Tan An City to Tan Hiep Town in neighboring Tien Giang Province, this stretch of road was famous for many eateries serving the unique dishes of fish congee with bitter herbs and pork cheek congee. 

However, since the Ho Chi Minh City-Trung Luong Expressway opened in 2012, fewer trucks and buses take the old highway, and many of these eateries have gradually disappeared. 

Only a few, like Cay Sung at 577 National Highway No. 1 in Tan An City’s Ward 4, remain.

The 30-year-old eater was named for a fig tree (cây sung) which had been growing right in front and still stands today as a symbol of the eatery’s identity.

Inside, round wooden tables covered with colorful floral red cloths bring out the feel of a vintage eatery in the Mekong Delta.

As customers take their seats, the owner prepares portions based on the number of diners.

The dish called cháo cá lóc rau đắng đất comes in a pot of congee simmered over a small alcohol stove, along with a large plate of fresh rau đắng đất (Glinus oppositifolius) and mung bean sprouts.

It is also served with a plate of cooked snakehead fish, drizzled with scallion oil and topped with crushed roasted peanuts, black pepper, and julienned ginger and green onions. 

A variety of dipping sauces including tamarind fish sauce, fermented soybean sauce, and fish sauce with ground chili complete the dish. 

The whole combo is served alongside a big jug of iced tea.

A humble but dedicated dish to make

The congee dish does not demand many ingredients but instead requires skills to make.

The snakehead fish is cleaned, lightly sautéed with oil and shallots, then boiled to make the broth. 

The rice is dry-roasted before being cooked in the fish broth. 

Once the grains have expanded and absorbed the flavors, the congee is ready to serve.

At the Cay Sung eatery, the congee is also simmered with mushrooms and pork meatballs, giving it an extra depth of sweetness from the fish, meat, and rice.

The eatery also carefully selects high-quality farmed fish for cooking. 

For the 30 years it has served the dish, the eatery has ensured that fish is always cooked to perfection to provide a tender yet firm texture, as well as flavorful taste.

But perhaps the most unforgettable aspect of a congee meal at Cay Sung is the ever-present plate of fresh rau đắng đất. 

Though the plant grows in many places, it is most commonly eaten in the Mekong Delta. 

Its tiny seeds naturally spread in garden soil, sprouting into lush green patches whenever the land is tilled.

While it can be eaten raw, the best way to enjoy rau đắng đất is lightly boiled.

The perfect bowl of congee at Cay Sung is one where diners add a handful of the herbs to their bowl just as the steaming congee is poured over it.

The bitterness of rau đắng đất can be intense at first, but like many challenging flavors, once acquired, it becomes an irresistible craving. 

After the first bitter taste, a light sweetness remains, mixing smoothly with the rich fish congee.

Customers might find themselves unexpectedly hooked -- satisfied yet still craving another bowl.

By the time they finish their meal, they may even break a light sweat.

It is more than just a hearty dish; it is a refreshing and comforting remedy after a long journey.

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