Addicted at the first time
A few years ago when I was living in New York I bought a small container of French sea salt for what I thought was an extravagant price. Since then my whole friends has become addicted to its light, briny taste, so much more delicate and pleasing than regular salt. We now use French sea salt at NYSH and because such a small amount is needed I can see now that the price was not at all extravagant. I still have a container of regular table salt that I use to cook with, but I can't imagine our Steakhouses will ever be without this special salt to accompany our meat.
Fleur de Sel
Literally flower of salt, fleur de sel is the first thin layer that forms on top of salt marshes mostly through the effect of drying winds.
Fleur de sel is produced in Brittany and Noirmoutier on the western Atlantic coast of France and in the Carmague area in the south of France. The most famous of these salts is Fleur de Sel de Guérande which is distinguished with a Label Rouge, or red label, a sign of high quality in France. This is what we serve at NYSH
The salt is hand gathered by paludiers (in Guérande) or sauniers (further south), who use
several special wooden tools crafted to fit the specific needs of salt harvesting. (the wooden shelve you use in NYSH is one of them)
Its refined, delicate, crunchy taste is best appreciated as a condiment.
Salt in History
I have sometimes wondered about the importance of salt in history, it just didn't seem like that important of a thing to me. But when you realize that for a long time it was the only way people had to preserve food, its importance is evident.
In French history, the tax on salt called the gabelle played an important role in many events. People, who attempted to avoid this tax by illegally importing salt, were known as faux sauniers (or fake salt harvesters) and were punished brutally.
Herve Beal – GM of New York Steakhouse
New York Steakhouse
25-27 Nguyen Dinh Chieu St, Dakao Ward, Dist. 1, HCMC
Tel: 08 38 23 73 73