Just a few steps from the corner of Lanh Binh Thang and Ton That Hiep Streets in District 11, Ho Chi Minh City, a stall selling offal stew draws in passersby with its unique herbal scent.

Located at 196 Ton That Hiep, Phá Lấu Lâm Ký has long been a beloved spot for Saigonese who love the rich flavors of phá lấu thuốc bắc (pork offal stewed in Chinese herbs).

Using a secret recipe and a masterful mix of herbs, Phá Lấu Lâm Ký offers a nostalgic taste of the past and showcases the unique taste of Chinese-Vietnamese cuisine to foodies from across the city.

“My master passed his recipe down to me and I’ve been running this business for 28 years now,” stall owner Lam Vi Nhuan, better known as Luong, shared. 

From behind the counter, patrons can see a variety of neatly arranged ingredients like pork offals, tongue, stomach, ears, and trotters.

Stewed pork offal displayed on the counter at Phá Lấu Lâm Ký in District 11, Ho Chi Minh City. Photo: Le Duy / Tuoi Tre

Beside pork, customers can also make orders for duck innards and wings and pre-orders for salt-steamed and soy-braised chicken.

A Chinese-Vietnamese phá lấu experience cannot be fulfilled without pickled mustard greens. 

At Phá Lấu Lâm Ký, these greens are carefully prepared and marinated in broth cooked with Chinese herbs, giving them a crisp texture while producing a subtle sourness.

Pickled mustard greens are marinated in Chinese herbal broth at Phá Lấu Lâm Ký in District 11, Ho Chi Minh City. Photo: Le Duy / Tuoi Tre

A boiling pot of Chinese herbal broth at Phá Lấu Lâm Ký in District 11, Ho Chi Minh City. Photo: Le Duy / Tuoi Tre

“Many buy just the broth and pickled greens for kids and the elderly. It’s very healthy!” Luong said. 

Luong’s stall does not attract a constant crowd, but its steady stream of customers keeps Luong busy throughout the day. 

A diner buys pork offal stew at Phá Lấu Lâm Ký in District 11, Ho Chi Minh City. Photo: Le Duy / Tuoi Tre

Customers wait for their orders at Phá Lấu Lâm Ký in District 11, Ho Chi Minh City. Photo: Le Duy / Tuoi Tre

Food is sold between VND38,000 to 45,000 ($1.5 to 1.77) per gram at Phá Lấu Lâm Ký in District 11, Ho Chi Minh City. Photo: Le Duy / Tuoi Tre

A banh mi (Vietnamese baguette sandwich) stuffed with pork offal stew fetches at VND 25,000 (US$0.98) at Phá Lấu Lâm Ký in District 11, Ho Chi Minh City. Photo: Le Duy / Tuoi Tre

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