A local salad stall run by a 60-year-old woman in downtown Ho Chi Minh City has grown to be a cultural treasure over its 50 years of operation.

Goi kho bo is a salad dish comprised of thinly sliced green papaya, shrimp crackers, and cow sweetbread (pancreas) topped with a blend of vinegar and soy sauce.

The sweetbread used on the salad gives the dish a gentle, chewy texture that juxtaposes the crunchy orange shrimp crackers. 

Thuy (right) prepares to serve goi kho bo at her stall on Hai Ba Trung Street, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City. Photo: Chau Ha / Tuoi Tre

Thuy, also known as Di Sau, is originally from the Mekong Delta province of An Giang and has been selling goi kho bo at this stallin Ho Chi Minh City since she was a little girl.

She began by helping her aunt sell the dish, but eventually took over the stall and began running it herself around 1970s.

According to Thuy, her goi kho bo used to be quite cheap, but inflation has forced her to raise her prices to VND25,000 (US$1.07) per plate.

Pre-packed 'goi kho bo' toppings for customers at Thuy’s stall on Hai Ba Trung Street, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City. Photo: Chau Ha / Tuoi Tre

All of her ingredients are made at home using an old family recipe.

Thuy opens her stall each morning at 11:00 am and serves customers right up to 7:00 pm.

Thuy’s business model is unique.

Her stall looks modest with a single stand for preparing food and one small table for diners to eat at on the sidewalk of Hai Ba Trung Street in District 1.

However, most of Thuy's customers would normally find a seat at the opposite Le Van Tam Park where they make their order of goi kho bo.

Thuy's staff will be at the park side and ready to take orders, then use a walkie talkie to give the orders to Thuy.

Thuy’s 'goi kho bo' stall is located on Hai Ba Trung Street, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City. Photo: Chau Ha / Tuoi Tre

On any given day, seven or eight servers help her prepare and serve goi kho bo to anywhere from 300 to 400 hungry customers.

Homemade ingredients are a staple of Thuy’s goi kho bo stall on Hai Ba Trung Street, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City. Photo: Chau Ha / Tuoi Tre

“In the past, I only sold papaya salad and cow sweetbread, but I eventually decided to add more toppings, like shrimp crackers.

“Customers can’t find anything like my shrimp crackers anywhere else because I make them by myself,” Thuy said.

Thuy's secret formula remains a mystery to her customers, but her sauce is superb, with sour, spicy, salty, and sweet flavors soaked into each piece of papaya.

Thuy’s goi kho bo stall attracts a lot of regular customers. Photo: Chau Ha / Tuoi Tre

According to Thuy, the distinctive taste of her dish hinges on how she blends the ingredients.

“I can’t create a tasty dish with just one ingredient. To prepare a delicious dish of goi kho bo, all of the ingredients must blend together flawlessly,” Thuy said.

After nearly half a century, Thuy's goi kho bo stall remains in Ho Chi Minh City to see the city's transformation.

Not only the meal, but possibly also the unique atmosphere of the stall, causes anyone who eats there to want to return.

Thuy prepares to serve goi kho bo at her stall on Hai Ba Trung Street, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City. Photo: Chau Ha / Tuoi Tre

Customers await their plates of goi kho bo at Thuy’s stall on Hai Ba Trung Street, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City. Photo: Chau Ha / Tuoi Tre

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