A restaurant on Gia Phu Street in District 6, Ho Chi Minh City boasts a hủ tiếu sa tế (satay rice noodle soup) recipe that has been passed down through three generations of Chinese-Vietnamese heritage and carried on by three neighboring shops.
The name of the restaurant, Hủ tiếu sa tế Tô Ký, has been around for nearly one century, according to its current owner, Tô Mỹ Doanh.
Doanh explained that her grandfather, Tô Cẩm, was the first to create the name ‘Tô Ký’ for the satay rice noodle soup.
Previously, Cẩm resided in Cho Lon, a vibrant Chinese-Vietnamese community spanning across Ho Chi Minh City’s District 5, District 6, District 8, District 10, and District 11, engaging in trade and traditional Chinese medicine.
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A collage of photos of Tô Cẩm (L), the founder of Tô Ký restaurant, and Tô Hưng, the business’ first successor. Photo: Supplied |
Starting as a physician, Cẩm began selling noodles to supplement his income and support his family.
Being of Teochew descent, his establishment first became known as a Teochew noodle shop.
Cẩm subsequently coined the name ‘Tô Ký,’ which combines his surname ‘Tô’ with ‘Ký,’ a common term in Sino-Vietnamese transliteration for a shop, Doanh elaborated.
Cẩm brought the recipe from China to Cho Lon in 1932 and later passed it down to his son, Doanh’s father.
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Tô Ký restaurant in District 6, Ho Chi Minh City. Photo: Thuy Linh |
Over the years in Cho Lon, four Tô Ký restaurants have maintained this ancestral satay rice noodle soup recipe, each owned by Doanh’s different family members located on Gia Phu, Chu Van An, and Pham Van Chi Streets in District 6, and Go Cong Street in District 5.
Presently, Tô Ký restaurant offers two main dishes: satay rice noodles and regular rice noodles.
The satay rice noodles feature a rich broth with over 30 spices, including satay powder, peanuts, sesame soy sauce, galangal chili, onion, lemongrass, Chinese medicinal herbs, and crushed dried shrimp.
Notably, diners appreciate the broth’s creamy texture and sweet undertones from thick coconut milk.
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Ingredients for the broth of ‘hủ tiếu sa tế’ (satay rice noodle soup) served at Tô Ký restaurant in District 6, Ho Chi Minh City. Photo: Thuy Linh / Tuoi Tre |
According to Doanh, the highlight of her grandfather’s recipe -- satay powder mixed with Chinese medicinal herbs -- is known for its efficacy in treating stomach ailments, especially beneficial for those with weak digestion.
The process of making satay powder for the noodles is labor-intensive, requiring batches of around a hundred kilograms made in one go for gradual sales, necessitating temporary closures for processing.
Ingredients for the noodle bowls are carefully sourced from long standing connections established during Cẩm’s time.
For instance, Doanh procures noodles from a shop passed down through three generations.
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Rice noodles used in ‘hủ tiếu sa tế’ (satay rice noodle soup) served at Tô Ký restaurant in District 6, Ho Chi Minh City. Photo: Thuy Linh / Tuoi Tre |
In old times, Tô Ký restaurant attracted diverse clientele, prompting family members to learn multiple languages like English, Hokkien, Mandarin, and Hainanese for effective communication.
“My family is committed to preserving my grandfather’s legacy because it sustains our livelihood,” Doanh emphasized.
“Since childhood, we’ve assisted our father in the business, facing many challenges, yet we persevere.
“I take pride in upholding the restaurant’s name established by my grandfather.
“Seeing loyal customers travel from afar to dine here brings me immense joy.
“My aspiration is to continue striving to meet the expectations of diners, both local and international.”
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Tô Mỹ Doanh, the current owner of Tô Ký restaurant in District 6, Ho Chi Minh City. Photo: Thuy Linh |
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A bowl of ‘hủ tiếu sa tế’ (satay rice noodle soup) served at Tô Ký restaurant in District 6, Ho Chi Minh City. Photo: Thuy Linh |
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Ingredients for the broth of ‘hủ tiếu sa tế’ (satay rice noodle soup) served at Tô Ký restaurant in District 6, Ho Chi Minh City. Photo: Thuy Linh |
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Ingredients for the broth of ‘hủ tiếu sa tế’ (satay rice noodle soup) served at Tô Ký restaurant in District 6, Ho Chi Minh City. Photo: Thuy Linh |
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A bowl of ‘hủ tiếu sa tế’ (satay rice noodle soup) served at Tô Ký restaurant in District 6, Ho Chi Minh City. Photo: Thuy Linh |
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